The
route to Roanoke, Virginia was meant to be primarily back roads.
But, as most of my rides go, the hours sitting at the computer and
playing with the Harley-Davidson Ride Planner mapping program was
more like evening entertainment than actual route planning. To be
fair, I did cover most of the intended roads. It’s just that I
tend to get behind schedule and decide to jump back on the highways
to make up lost time. This trip followed that same pattern. One of
these days I’m going to learn to just give myself more time in the
first place.
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| Ok, I admit it, the bikini contest was also a factor. |
The
stated purpose of this trip was to attend the 2012 Blue Ridge Bike
Fest in Roanoke. The real purpose was to satisfy my urge to get out
for another ride. I recently bought a new 2011 Harley-Davidson Road
Glide Ultra and I plan to tack on several thousand miles between now
and say December. That means finding every excuse I can to hit the
road. A biker rally a couple of hundred miles away fit the bill
perfectly. So, I packed a change of clothes and hopped on the bike around 10AM on Friday the 13th and headed for Roanoke.
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| A prelude to the ride and one of the many great stops I made in Roanoke. |
From
a “get there fast” perspective, I had a couple of choices. One,
I could jump on the interstates and be there in about 3 hours.
(Yeah, that wasn’t going to happen.) Two, I could take US-29 (a
4-lane divided highway) down to Lynchburg and then US-460 (another
4-lane divided highway) over to Roanoke and get there in about 3.5
hours. (Ugh, I’ve ridden up and down 29 for what seems like a
million times, so another ride down it wasn’t very appealing.)
Instead, I decided to see if there was anything between me and
Roanoke that would make for an interesting stop.
Two
specific things caught my eye. Schuyler, Virginia (I’ll explain
why later) and the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia.
With those two stops securely in the plan, now it was just a matter
of seeing what else I could work into the route.
One
thing I typically do when plotting a route is determine where I think
I’ll be around the time I get hungry. While there are always
McDonald’s and other fast food joints along the way that I can hit
in a pinch, every now and then I try to
find some local tavern or bar that might surprise me with a good
meal.
For
this trip, I was guessing I’d make it to Lynchburg around lunch
time. I did a little “googling” and settled on a target for
lunch. That location got worked into the plan and the ride was
beginning to come together. The next step was to see whether I could
use the route to collect a few points in Harley’s ABCs of Touring
contest. I won’t go into details, but the ABCs contest is a
creative marketing ploy for Harley to get people out riding their
motorcycles, racking up the miles, deciding to trade them in for new
motorcycles and keeping their loyal legions buying motorcycles. The
more points you collect, the better the awards. You know, good stuff like patches, decals,
coins, etc.
One
stop I needed to make was at the bank to grab some cash out of the
ATM. I hate riding with no cash in my pocket and the wallet was
severely thin as I rolled the bike out of the garage. I think I was
probably 30 or 40 miles past my bank when I remembered that I needed
to hit the ATM. Being a cheapskate, I really wanted to find a branch
or ATM from my bank so I didn’t have to pay those damned ATM
charges. It was probably going to be Lynchburg before I saw a branch
of my bank, but I made a mental note to be on the lookout for a
viable ATM. Hopefully, nothing would happen between home and
Lynchburg that would require cash.
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| Waugh's Harley-Davidson in Orange, VA |
I
rode down US-29 as far as Culpeper, Virginia where I headed for the
back road to Waugh Harley-Davidson in Orange. In the ABCs contest
you get points for visiting Harley dealers as well as a bunch of different ways. Waugh’s seemed like as good a place as any to
start. Plus, the back way into Orange takes you down Rapidan Road
through a little village called Rapidan which sits on the Rapidan
River. (That’s a lot of Rapidans in one sentence.) I spent just
enough time at Waugh’s to take a picture and pick up a cheap couple
of points for my ABCs.
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| Michie Tavern |
The
next stop on my plan was Michie Tavern. The tavern was established
in 1784 about 17 miles from its current location and served as a
local gathering place along the stagecoach route until the mid-1800s.
It was bought in 1927 and moved in pieces by horse and wagon to its current
location just down the road from Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s
home. It opened as a museum in 1928 and is designated as a Virginia
historic landmark. After a brief stop at Michie Tavern for a few
pictures, it was on to Schuyler.
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| One of the many outbuildings with period-dressed hosts as well as tools and techniques from the early 18th century. |
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| Meadow Run Gristmill at Michie Tavern. |
Schuyler,
Virginia is the birthplace and boyhood home of Earl Hamner. Hamner
wrote the novel Spencer's Mountain and The Homecoming, which were the basis for
his work on the TV series The Waltons. For those of you who
are too young to remember, The Waltons was a 1970’s TV
series that followed the lives of a rural Virginia family. You might
remember, or have heard, the “Goodnight, John Boy” scenarios that
ended the show each week. Hamner based the series on his childhood
in Schuyler.
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| Earl Hamner's boyhood home in Schuyler. |
Schuyler
was more or less on my path to Roanoke and provided a good excuse to
ride some of the great state highways and county roads we have here
in Virginia. I had gotten a later start on the ride than I planned,
so I didn’t actually visit the museum, although in hindsight I wish
I would have. Oh well, that just gives me an excuse to make another
ride down there.
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| Walton's Mountain Museum in Schuyler. |
From
Schuyler, the route was supposed to include more back roads and, one
in particular, VA-622, along the James River. But, like I mentioned,
I was late getting started and since I didn’t have a dime to my
name to even buy a Snickers bar and a Coke (my usual "on the road"
snack), I decided instead to make my way back over to US-29 to make
up some time and get to Lynchburg before I blew the entire day.
VA-622 will have to wait for another day, but I’ll get to it
sometime this summer.
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| The Rockfish River in Schuyler. |
One of the best surprises of the day came as I rolled out of Schuyler and made the swithback turn from Rockfish River Road to Salem Road. As one might guess, Salem Road crossed over the Rockfish River where a nice dam and waterfall greeted me. To be honest, I didn't stop on this day, but it was one of the main reasons I decide to go back to Schuyler on my way home on Sunday.
As
luck would have it, I spotted a branch of my bank shortly after
riding into Lynchburg. As luck would also have it, the drive up ATM
was being serviced and they didn’t have a walk up ATM. I sat in
the parking lot and waited the 10 minutes or so for the serviceman to
finish up. Eventually, I was able to grab some cash and head on to
the Stoney Badger Tavern for a late lunch. Fifteen dollars, an order of buffalo
wings and one Abbey Wright Smoky Oak Scottish Ale later and I was on
the road again.
I
took US-221 from Lynchburg to Bedford. Once you get out of
Lynchburg, it’s a 2-lane highway versus 460 being a 4-lane divided
highway. At least I was able to feel like I was still staying true
to my back roads roots.
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| Estes Plaza at the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford, Virginia. |
Bedford,
Virginia is the home to the National D-Day Memorial. “Why is the
National D-Day Memorial located in little, bitty Bedford, Virginia?”
you might ask. There’s actually a very good reason.
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| The Overlord Arch in Estes Plaza, so named for the operation that commenced on D-Day, June 6, 1944. |
(Taken
from the National D-Day Memorial website: http://www.dday.org/)
– Like eleven other
Virginia communities, Bedford provided a company of soldiers (Company
A) to the 29th Infantry Division when the National Guard's 116th
Infantry Regiment was activated on 3 February 1941. Some thirty
Bedford soldiers were still in that company on D-Day; several more
from Bedford were in other D-Day companies, including one who, two
years earlier, had been reassigned from the 116th Infantry to the
First Infantry Division. Thus he had already landed in both Northern
Africa and Sicily before coming ashore on D-Day at Omaha Beach with
the Big Red One. Company A of the 116th Infantry assaulted Omaha
Beach as part of the First Division's Task Force O.
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| The sculptures in the beach landing represent the broad range of valor, fidelity, and sacrifice made during the landing at Normandy. |
By
day's end, nineteen of the company's Bedford soldiers were dead. Two
more Bedford soldiers died later in the Normandy campaign, as did yet
another two assigned to other 116th Infantry companies. Bedford's
population in 1944 was about 3,200. Proportionally this community
suffered the nation's severest D-Day losses. Recognizing Bedford as
emblematic of all communities, large and small, whose
citizen-soldiers served on D-Day, Congress warranted the
establishment of the National D-Day Memorial here.
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| Reynold's Garden at the D-Day Memorial patterned after the design of the Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force's shoulder patch. The statue in the center of the folly is of Supreme Commander, General Dwight D. Eisenhower. |
The
memorial is worth the trip if you are ever in the area. Bedford is
only about 30 miles east of I-81 from Roanoke, so it's not too far
out of your way if you are passing through Virginia on I-81. I
recommend a visit if you can work it into your schedule.
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| One of the many moving tributes at the D-Day Memorial. |
I
arrived at my motel in Roanoke at 4:00 that afternoon. The rally had
officially started at 1PM, so after checking in, I rode over to the
Roanoke Civic Center, paid my $15 for my weekend pass and killed some
time looking at the various vendors and their wares. The band,
Guitardogs, were playing in the plaza when I arrived and the obligatory bikini
contest was slated to start at 6:30 on the main stage.
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This was literally the first thing I saw after entering the gate and getting my wristband for the weekend. I think I'm going to like it here.
I'll be writing up
a rally report for Bikernet.com, but I enjoyed the evening wandering
around looking at motorcycles and all the “fixins” they make to
go with them. The Gypsy Sons took the stage after the bikini
contest, so I stuck around for a few songs, then headed off to find
dinner.
|
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The Wall of Death was roaring with excitement as they rode a go cart and motorcycles around it sideways. Ain't centrifugal force great!
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| I
know I'll have at least a couple of buddies who will be ticked off if I
mention the bikini contest and then don't include a picture of it on
the blog. Here you go, fellas!
|
|
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| The Gypsy Sons rocking it out for the crowds on the plaza. |
I
hadn't done any research on places to eat in Roanoke, but I was
familiar with one trusted stand-by place where I knew the wings would
be hot and the beer would be cold. That's right, I made my way over
to Hooters. After dinner, it was back to the motel to do some
research on places to visit and things to do the next day.
Saturday
dawned with another great day for riding. I had a trip planned that
would take me west of Roanoke, then snake back through the hills and
valleys into Blacksburg, home of Virginia Tech, then back to Roanoke
for a couple of stops at places that look interesting. If all went
as planned, I'd spend most of the day riding with stops at just about
the right time to give my butt a nice break at a location where I
could also wet my whistle.
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| Plaque at the April 16th Memorial at Virginia Tech. I was visiting Blacksburg just a couple of days before the 5th anniversary of that tragic day that took 32 lives. |
My
first priority was breakfast. The night before I had stumbled across
a place on the Internet called Texas Tavern. It had been around
since 1930 and was open 24/7 serving hamburgers, chili, and other
essentials. I decided to make that my breakfast stop. It was a wise
decision. While I had eggs, bacon and toast, the guy two stools down
from me had a cheeseburger and chili. At 8 in the morning! I love
this place!
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| The Texas Tavern. A Roanoke institution for more than 82 years. |
From
Texas Tavern, I rode out of town eventually making my way to VA-311
and rode it north to a little cross roads called Paint Bank. Another
4 miles north on VA-311 from Paint Bank and you cross into West
Virginia. I didn't go that far. I stopped in Paint Bank and
absorbed the peacefulness that comes with being somewhere and nowhere
at the same time. Paint Bank has a general store, a bed and
breakfast and a restaurant. The store and restaurant share a
building and the B&B, Depot Lodge, is across the street within a stone's throw.
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| Paint Bank General Store with the Swinging Bridge Restaurant in the back. |
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| Depot Lodge in Paint Bank. |
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| The view from Tingler's Mill, the gristmill in Paint Bank looking back at the general store. |
I
retraced my route on VA-311 until I got to New Castle where I turned
southwest on VA-42 (another great road) and took it to Newport where
I grabbed US-460 east and rode into Blacksburg. I had one simple
reason for going to Blacksburg. I was here to visit the famous (or
is it infamous) TOTS. The real name of the bar is Top of The Stairs,
but everyone refers to it as TOTS. Since I had never been here
before, I figured today was as good a day as any to pop in. I had a
good ol' Texas beer, Shiner Bock, which is difficult to find on tap
here in Virginia.
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| The New Castle overlook on VA-42 with New Castle down below. |
My
next stop was The Coffee Pot. I found this bar online and was
fascinated with the history of it. It was built in 1936 and became a
roadhouse in 1937. It was built using the roadside architecture that
was typical in that time and featured a coffee pot on the southwest
end of the building. It is listed on the National Register of
Historic Places and has hosted a lot of great acts over the years
like Willie Nelson, Rick Derringer, and Ritchie Valens. I had to
visit it.
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| The Coffee Pot Roadhouse - You gotta go there! |
The
Coffee Pot did not disappoint. It was exactly like I imagined it
would be. The bartender, Kelly, was serving 4 or 5 other patrons
when I walked in and they all welcomed me like I was one of the
regulars. I took a few pictures of the interior and enjoyed a couple
of Virginia brews from the Starr Hill Brewery. I really want to go
back to Roanoke just to visit the Coffee Pot and Texas Tavern again.
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| The dining area and the stage in the background that's hosted so many great acts. |
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| The front of the fireplace in the Coffee Pot |
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| The backside of the fireplace at the Coffee Pot |
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| The booths in the Coffee Pot |
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| A close-up of the booth back - Do you get the sense I really liked this place? It was great! |
I
rode back to the Civic Center to see what was going on at the rally.
The crowds were much bigger on Saturday and Untax't Whiskey was
playing on the Plaza stage. The finals of the bikini contest were
scheduled to start in a couple of hours, but by now my breakfast had
worn off and I was getting hungry. I decided to skip out on the bikini contest finals and go find some dinner. I realize that jeopardizes my "man card", but I was hungry.
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| The crowds at the rally grew quite a bit on Saturday. |
A restaurant
had caught my eye while I was researching Roanoke the night before
and I suddenly had a craving for shrimp and grits.
That meant a trip to Blue 5 Restaurant in downtown Roanoke. Southern
cuisine and craft beer. Sounds like my kind of place. Home to 46
beers on tap and their signature dish, Shrimp Creole and Grits. On
my, it was good; REAL GOOD!
I
decided to call it a day after dinner and rode back to the motel to
plan the ride home in the morning. I was meeting Renee and friends
at the Griffin Tavern in Flint Hill and needed to find out the time
and figure out if I could squeeze in something interesting on the
way.
Unfortunately,
I chose the quick route back since I had about 195 miles to go and
the gang decided on a noon meeting. That means there is little to
write about. I rolled out of the motel a little before 6AM and took
the US-460, US-29 route back. I did manage to squeeze in a
McDonald's breakfast burrito and backtracked to Schuyler again to get
better pictures than I did the first day through. Unfortunately, I missed the first turn to Schuyler that would have taken me along the Rockfish River all the way there. Instead, I used VA-6 and came into Schuyler the same way I had on Friday.
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| Another shot of the Rockfish River in Schuyler and remnants of the soapstone factory that once stood here. |
Luckily,
I got to sneak off US-29 in Madison and take VA-231 north. This is
a nice ride between Madison and Sperryville with minimal traffic and
enough scenery to keep it interesting. The road passes a few miles
east of Old Rag Mountain, one of Shenandoah National Park's most
popular hiking mountains. With it's proximity to Washington, DC,
it's the most hiked and the most dangerous based on the number of
search and rescue missions each year.
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| Old Rag Photo by Alan Williams from the Shenandoah National Park website at http://www.nps.gov/shen | . |
After
a good lunch with great friends, Renee donned her helmet and climbed
on the back of the bike to ride home with me. It was her first ride
on the new bike and based on her enthusiasm when we arrived home, I'm
going to paraphrase Sally Field's 1985 Academy Award acceptance
speech and say, “She likes it! Right now, she likes it!”
Until
next time, which hopefully will be soon, see you on the road to
nowhere.
