Spring Civil War Ride

I reluctantly moved to Virginia in January of 2006. I was apprehensive because I had spent 23 years in Texas and considered myself a Texan. What I didn’t appreciate at the time was how much Virginia has to offer in the way of history and a Texas-like sense of state pride. I now have easy access to places like Washington, DC, Philadelphia, Yorktown and other places that played a significant role in forming our nation. But, my favorite thing about living in Northern Virginia is the easy access to an abundance of Civil War sites and history. There are literally hundreds of sites within 100 miles of my home including no fewer than eight major battlefields. I have the luxury of jumping on the motorcycle and within minutes I am able to take myself back in time to a place where survival was a daily goal for some and unattainable for many others.

A shot from the Manassas NBP this fall (2011).

The Civil War; also known as The War Between the States, Mr. Lincoln’s War, or if you’re from the south like me, The War Against Northern Aggression, represents one of the darkest four years in our young country’s history. Slavery was a major factor in the war, but as in most wars, the cause is not simply one thing, but a combination of circumstances, and lest we forget the most common cause, power and money. The Northern states possessed the majority of the power in Congress and the nation’s wealth. The Southern states wanted more power in Congress and most of their wealth was wrapped up in cotton. Slaves made the cotton industry king in the South and a threat against slavery was viewed as a direct threat against the wealth of the South.

The Electra Glide parked along the split-rail fence at Manassas NBP.

I live only a few miles from Manassas National Battlefield Park (NBP) and drive through the battlefield daily on my way to and from work. Manassas NBP was the site of two major battles of significance during the war. The first battle (known as 1st Manassas), in July 1861, was the first major land battle of the war. The South won 1st Manassas and that battle introduced the North to the famous Rebel Yell as well as earned Thomas J. Jackson (a Colonel at the time) the nickname of “Stonewall” Jackson.

Stonewall Jackson Monument at Manassas NBP (I took this one earlier in the year when the battlefield was covered in snow)

In August 1862, Confederate General Robert E. Lee led his Army of Northern Virginia to a decisive win in the 2nd Battle of Manassas. As a result of the loss at 2nd Manassas, President Abraham Lincoln relieved Major General John Pope of command and merged Pope’s army in with Major General George B. McClellan’s Army of the Potomac. Unfortunately for Lincoln, the Army of the Potomac had to endure multiple changes in leadership as he searched for a general who could, or would, “take the war to the rebels”. But as of late-summer 1862, McClellan was Lincoln’s guy.

The Electra Glide doing what it does best. Taking me to visit great places.

Lee decided to take his army north into Maryland. His goal was to take the war to northern soil and allow Virginia time to heal from the war. In addition, he hoped a victory on northern soil would impact the elections coming up in November of 1862. Lee’s army marched north from Manassas, crossed the Potomac River and began what became known as the Maryland Campaign. The Maryland Campaign ended in the bloodiest, single-day battle in the history of the United States along Antietam Creek.

I’ve visited many of the battlefields in the area and two of my favorite places are Antietam National Battlefield near Sharpsburg, Maryland and Gettysburg National Military Park in Pennsylvania. Between my desire to visit these two places again and the need to get out on a motorcycle ride after a long, cold winter, I decided to go for a ride. In a rare moment of weakness, Renee agreed to come along providing it wasn’t raining and wasn’t too cold. I plotted out a ride that would not only take me to the battlefields, but also ensured we got to ride some terrific roads on the way there.

After filling the gas tank at the local 7-Eleven, we headed west on Waterfall Road across Bull Run Mountain and then through the Virginia Piedmont on our way to Antietam National Battlefield. The roads on our way to Antietam are a motorcyclist’s dream. Each rises, falls and winds their way across the hills and dales that make up this part of Virginia and Maryland. The ride into the Antietam battlefield meanders along the Maryland side of the Potomac River on Harpers Ferry Road providing great views of the river as well as the countryside walked by the armies of the North and South.

A shot of Waterfall/Hopewell Road from a ride last fall.

A shot of Halfway Road that runs between The Plains and Middleburg, Virginia

This is Foxcroft Road north of Middleburg alongside Goose Creek

Harpers Ferry Road alongside the Potomac River just west of Sandy Hook, Maryland

More of Harpers Ferry Road as it winds its way toward Sharpsburg

We arrived at Antietam NB and spent some time riding along the designated route and stopping to view the sights and read the history associated with this special place.

On September 16, 1862, Gen. McClellan and Gen. Lee came face-to-face near Sharpsburg, MD. Lee was defending a line to the west of Antietam Creek with his back to the Potomac River. Union troops began their attack on Lee's left flank the next morning. The two armies hammered each other back and forth all day.

The Dunker Church at Sharpsburg. Named the Dunker Church because the congregation believed in full immersion baptism. In 1862 it was the site of the initial engagements of the Battle of Antietam.

The Miller farm and the cornfield where heavy fighting occurred 0n the first day of the battle.

The monument in honor of the Maryland soldiers who fought and died at Antietam. It sits across the street from the Dunker Church.

Union assaults against the Sunken Road came very close to breaking the Confederate center, but the Union army wasn't able to take full advantage of their success here.

What started out as a defensive advantage almost turned into a disaster for the Confederate troops as they found themselves sitting ducks in the Sunken Road, also known as "Bloody Lane".

Another view of the Sunken Road from the observation tower (lower left of picture) and the field Union troops crossed while assaulting it.

McClellan had Maj. Gen. Ambrose Burnside working Lee's right flank. To gain access, Burnside's men needed to cross Antietam Creek. The stone bridge over the creek was well protected by Confederate troops from Georgia who were perched atop a ridge over the creek. Burnside took most of the day to make his assault, but eventually crossed over the bridge and began to roll up the Confederate right. But, before he could complete his rout of the Confederates, Gen. A.P. Hill's troops arrived from Harpers Ferry and drove Burnside and his men back across the creek. This counterattack saved Lee's army from a crushing defeat and left the outcome of the battle basically a draw.

The view of Burnside's Bridge over the Antietam Creek from where the Confederates held the high ground.

Antietam was the bloodiest single-day battle in American history with more than 26,000 casualties.

Campsite replica from Antietam National Battlefield

After our visit to the Antietam battlefield, we continued north on the back roads of Maryland. One stop included in our route was the Washington Monument. Now I know what your thinking, "Good grief, Chuck. The Washington Monument isn't in the backwoods of Maryland." Well, that's where your wrong.

The citizens of Boonsboro, Maryland, in Washington County, wanted to erect a monument to our first president. So, they built a stone tower that is 34 feet tall and was dedicated in 1827, 58 years before the more famous monument in Washington, DC was completed. It sits 1540 feet above sea level near the top of Monument Knob on South Mountain and offers a great view of the valley below.

The original Washington Monument in Washington County, Maryland.

The view from Monument Knob in Washington Monument State Park.

From the Washington Monument, we wound our way through some Maryland back roads and into Pennsylvania for our overnight visit in Gettysburg at the historic Gettysburg Hotel.

The Historic Gettysburg Hotel where Abraham Lincoln once stayed. It's now run by Best Western, but our room was great. We'll be back for another visit soon.

We roamed the streets of downtown Gettysburg the rest of the evening finally settling in at the Garryowen Irish Pub on Chambersburg Street. We had a great time there mostly listening to the conversations of the other patrons (who, according to the bartender, had been there most of the day). They were having a great time and their party atmosphere was contagious for Renee and me. We spent a couple of hours there enjoying the beer, wine, food and conversation. Or, as they say at the Garryowen, "Ceol, cainte agus craic" - Music, Talk and Fun!

Renee hanging out with Abraham Lincoln and Perry Como on the square in Gettysburg. I'm not sure of the Perry Como connection, but Lincoln is pointing his hat at the window of the house where he wrote the Gettysburg Address.

The old train depot in Gettysburg.

The next morning we braved the cold and climbed on the bike for our visit to the Gettysburg National Military Park (NMP). The pictures tell the story for the battle at Gettysburg better than I can, here's a quick history.

The battle was fought over the first 3 days in July 1863. The fighting began on the north and west side of town, continued through the town itself, and eventually to the south where the Union army held the high ground.

By this time, Lincoln had appointed Maj. Gen. George Meade as the commander of the Army of the Potomac. Lee had lost his right hand man in Gen. Stonewall Jackson earlier in the year (May), but still had many of the same generals with him. Unfortunately for Lee, none were as savvy as Jackson and several opportunities to take control early in the battle were lost. In addition, Lee's eyes and ears of his army, his cavalry led by J.E.B Stuart, were missing from the battle until the last day. All of this led to a defeat for the Confederate army.

Renee with Lincoln again outside the Visitor's Center at Gettysburg NMP.

The view northwest of Gettysburg where some of the early engagements began on the first day of the battle. Lee had actually instructed his leaders not to engage the enemy, but war rarely goes as planned.

The view looking back into town toward Seminary Ridge.

Cannon lining Confederate Drive in Gettysburg NMP

The view looking across the field where Gen. Pickett led his charge. The Union army were located along the tree lines you see in the far background. Pickett's men had to cross this much unprotected ground to reach the Union lines. It was a blood bath.

The view from Little Round Top where, again, the Union troops held the high ground and the Confederate troops had to clamber over boulders to reach the enemy lines.

The view back toward town from Little Round Top.

One of the monuments in the Wheatfield where several rounds of battles were fought.

The view from the Union lines of the field Pickett's men crossed as they made their charge.

The copse of trees that represented the Union lines as Pickett's men made their charge. The Union lines were near here and this area represents the "High Water Mark" of the Confederate lines - meaning the farthest line of advance in the battle.

More of the area around the High Water Mark.

The angle where some of the fiercest hand-to-hand combat occurred during Pickett's charge.

Confederate Gen. Lewis Armistead's brigade got farther in the charge than any other. He was shot three times just after crossing the wall near the Angle. Armistead was great friends with Union Gen. Winfield Hancock who was leading the Union troops in the area where Pickett's men charged. He was rendered aid by Union Capt. Henry Bingham, who informed Armistead that Hancock had been commanding this part of the defensive line, but that Hancock, too, had just been wounded. Armistead's wounds were not believed to be mortal, but he died two days later.

Hancock survived the battle and the Civil War and went on to be the Democratic nominee for President in 1880.

The monument to Gen. Lewis Armistead, marking where he was wounded.

The Battle of Gettysburg resulted in 51,112 casualties (23,049 for the Union and 28,063 for the Confederate armies).

Pickett's charge alone resulted in total losses of approximately 6,555. Estimates say at least 1,123 Confederates were killed on the battlefield and 4,019 were wounded and/or captured.